Zoned indoor detection
Detectors placed and zoned so you can arm part of the house and still walk to the kitchen at night. Pet-tolerant options where an animal lives inside.
- zones
- partitions
- pet tolerant
An alarm is only useful if it goes off for the right reasons and reaches someone who can act. We zone it properly, cut the false alarms, and put the network underneath it in so cameras, gates and alarms all stay connected.
Most alarms get switched off because they cry wolf. That is a design problem, not a user problem — a detector pointed at a curtain that moves in the wind, or a house with one zone so you cannot arm downstairs at night.
Detectors placed and zoned so you can arm part of the house and still walk to the kitchen at night. Pet-tolerant options where an animal lives inside.
Perimeter and yard beams that pick up someone crossing the property before they reach a door, with sensitivity set so a cat does not trigger a siren at 3am.
Fixed buttons at the bed and the door, plus remote panics you can carry. Wired into the same panel so one press does everything it is supposed to.
Inside and outside sirens with strobes, positioned to be heard where it counts and to be a nuisance to the person who set them off rather than to you.
The panel can be set up to notify you on your phone when it arms, disarms or triggers — so you know the alarm went off, not just that the neighbours complained.
We service and extend alarm systems that are already installed — adding zones, replacing failed detectors and getting a panel that has been bypassed for years back into use.
Every other channel on this list eventually runs over a cable. Cameras, intercoms, gate controllers and the office all sit on the same network, and when that network is a router in a corner with three range extenders, everything above it is unreliable.
Network cable run properly — planned routes, correct terminations, both ends labelled — instead of a cable draped over a ceiling and pushed through a hole in the wall.
Switches sized to the number of devices, with power over ethernet where cameras and access points need it, so one cable does data and power.
Router setup for fibre or LTE, with the ports and access the cameras need opened correctly rather than leaving the whole system exposed.
Access points placed to cover the property, including the outbuilding and the far end of the yard, on a plan rather than by trial and error with plug-in extenders.
The cabling and switching that CCTV, intercoms and controllers actually depend on — done at the same time as the security install so it is one job, not two.
Data points at desks and tills, cabling to a tidy point, and a layout someone else can still work on in five years.
Alarms and networks are both about layout, so anything you can tell us about the shape of the place helps.
Do not have all of that? Message us anyway. The survey exists precisely so that you do not have to work any of this out yourself — it is free, and there is no obligation at the end of it.
The panel can be set up to signal a monitoring company, but the monitoring and the armed response contract are between you and that company — we do not provide the response service. Tell us who you use, or plan to use, and we will set the panel up to work with them.
Almost always. False alarms usually come from a detector aimed at something that moves — a curtain, a heater, a pet — or a beam set far too sensitive. Repositioning, re-zoning or swapping to a pet-tolerant detector normally solves it.
Often yes. We service existing panels, add zones and replace failed detectors. Where a panel is too old to expand or parts are no longer available, we will say so and quote the alternative.
Because WiFi does not travel through walls and across a yard, and plug-in extenders halve the throughput each time they repeat. The fix is a cable to a properly placed access point — which is the same cabling your cameras want anyway.
Cameras can share the existing network, but they need enough capacity and a switch with power over ethernet. On anything more than a few cameras it is worth doing the cabling properly at install time rather than retrofitting it later.
They can share the same cabling, power and backup, and be set up so that arming, footage and access logs all live in one place instead of three. Doing both in one visit is usually cheaper than doing them a year apart.
Something not covered here? Ask us directly — or see the general questions.
Send one message with roughly what you need. We come out, look at it properly, and come back with a written price — no charge for the visit.